For 14 years, the question hung over Sqirl like a permanent reservation request: when will Jessica Koslow cook dinner? The answer was always soon, someday, eventually. Permits. Liquor license. Timing.
On February 19, 2026, "someday" finally arrived. Sqirl After Dark launched to an almost absurd level of anticipation, and then something rare happened. It lived up to the hype.
This isn't Sqirl with the lights dimmed. It's a fundamentally different restaurant that shares DNA with the daytime icon but speaks a different language entirely. If breakfast Sqirl is a California morning in a bowl, dinner Sqirl is a Paris bistro that wandered into East Hollywood and decided to stay.
The Jessica Koslow Story
Jessica Koslow didn't set out to run one of LA's most influential restaurants. She started Sqirl in 2012 as a jam company, selling preserves at farmers markets around Los Angeles. The jams led to toast, the toast led to a tiny cafe, and the cafe became a cultural institution.
Her sorrel rice bowl and ricotta toast became two of the most photographed dishes in LA history. The fermentation-forward approach influenced a generation of California cooks. Sqirl wasn't just a restaurant, it was a philosophy: seasonal, inventive, and unapologetically personal.
But Koslow always wanted more. In a conversation with Taste Cooking, she revealed that dinner had been on her mind since the beginning. Permits, a long fight for a liquor license, and the sheer intensity of running a high-volume breakfast spot kept pushing the timeline.
The name "Sqirl After Dark" signals the shift. As Koslow puts it, this is "the adult version of Sqirl." Same address, same commitment to fermentation and California produce, completely different energy.
The Team Behind Dinner
One of the smartest decisions Koslow made was not making dinner all about herself. Sqirl After Dark is a true collaboration among three chefs with distinct voices.
Guillermo Mendez, Executive Sous Chef
Mendez runs dinner service and brings deep Mexican culinary traditions to the menu. His influence shows up in dishes like the pork collar with sikil p'ak (a Yucatecan pumpkin seed dip), tamarindo, purslane, chicory, and Sonoran tortilla. As detailed in the Resy announcement, his flavors are bold but balanced, adding a dimension that daytime Sqirl never had.
Sandra Felix, Chef de Cuisine
Felix contributes dishes that lean French-Californian, including the wagyu Denver with sauce vert, braised cipollini, and tabbouleh mignonette. Her precision with protein cookery gives the dinner menu its backbone.
Kayla Garcia, Beverage Director
Garcia built a cocktail program centered on fruit, herbs, and low-waste techniques. The drinks are seasonal and inventive, matching the food's philosophy. She leads a predominantly female hospitality team that sets the evening's tone.
The Menu: What to Order
The dinner menu is concise and changes with the seasons. Here's what you can expect right now.
Starters
The bread service is where dinner nods to daytime Sqirl. You get house bread with fermented Nardello butter and Nardello jam, a direct callback to the cafe's preserves-first identity. It's the bridge between the restaurant you know and the one you're about to discover.
The shima aji crudo is clean and bright, one of the lighter options to start. The wagyu beef tartare with burnt negi has more depth, with a smoky edge that sets up the heavier courses well. The Jidori chicken liver parfait with celery butter is rich and generous, a dish that tells you this kitchen isn't afraid of luxury.
The Sqirl Caesar with croissant croutons is the kind of creative riff that justifies itself immediately. The croissants add buttery richness that regular croutons can't match.
Mains
Mendez's pork collar is the standout main. The sikil p'ak brings earthy sweetness that complements the char on the pork, while the tamarindo adds acidity. The Sonoran tortilla on the side is more than a vessel, it's a dish in itself.
Felix's wagyu Denver with sauce vert is the more classical option. The cipollini and tabbouleh mignonette add Mediterranean notes without overwhelming the beef.
The Difference from Daytime
If you're expecting the dinner version of a sorrel rice bowl, recalibrate. Daytime Sqirl is bright, vegetal, and grain-forward. Dinner is richer, more protein-focused, and structurally bistro. The fermentation thread connects both, but they're different restaurants sharing the same soul.
The jam company origins still show up in clever ways. That fermented Nardello butter in the bread service isn't a gimmick, it's Koslow reminding you where all of this started.
The Space
Sqirl's Virgil Village cafe seats roughly 40 people, and it hasn't dramatically expanded for dinner. The space transforms after sunset with warmer lighting and a slower pace. The Eastside Rag described it as feeling "like a bistro in Paris's 11th arrondissement, except you're in East Hollywood having dinner along the street."
The intimate size is both a strength and a challenge. It makes dinner feel special, almost private. But it also means reservations are extremely competitive.
Practical Details
Address: 720 N Virgil Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90029 (Virgil Village, between Hollywood and Silver Lake)
Hours: Dinner service starts at 5:30 PM. Daytime runs 8 AM to 4 PM daily.
Phone: (323) 284-8147
Website: sqirlla.com
Price Range: $$ to $$$ (expect $60-$90 per person with drinks)
Dress Code: Come as you are. This is East Hollywood, not Beverly Hills. Smart casual fits, but nobody's checking.
Reservation Strategy
This is the hardest reservation on LA's Eastside right now. Reservations opened on Resy on January 29, 2026, and they've been competitive since day one.
How to Book
Reservations are available on Resy for parties up to six. New availability typically drops at midnight. Set a Resy notification for Sqirl to catch cancellations in real time.
Best Times
Weeknight dinners (Wednesday and Thursday) are easier to land than Friday or Saturday. Early seatings around 5:30 PM tend to have slightly more availability than the 7:30-8:30 PM prime window.
Walk-In Tips
Bar seating may be available for walk-ins, especially on weeknights. Arrive right when dinner service starts for the best shot. Solo diners have an advantage here.
How Far Ahead to Book
At least 2-3 weeks out for weekend reservations. Weeknights can sometimes be booked 1 week ahead if you're flexible on time.
Who It's Best For
Date Night: Excellent. The intimate size, warm lighting, and refined-but-relaxed vibe make it one of the better date spots on the Eastside. The cocktail program is designed for lingering.
Foodies: Essential. If you care about LA's dining evolution, Sqirl After Dark is a milestone. The fermentation techniques and collaborative kitchen approach are worth experiencing firsthand.
Groups: Works for small groups (up to 6), but the tight space means it's better for 2-4 people. The menu encourages sharing.
Special Occasions: Great for birthdays and anniversaries that don't need a grand stage. The celebration here is the food, not the production.
Not Ideal For: Large groups (7+), anyone looking for a loud social scene, or families with small children.
What Critics Say
Spill the Beans on Substack called Sqirl After Dark "the new restaurant Los Angeles deserves," praising the collaborative kitchen model and the way dinner extends Sqirl's philosophy without repeating it.
FOUND LA covered the opening noting that Koslow's long preparation period paid off in a dinner service that feels polished rather than experimental.
The Infatuation updated their Sqirl review to reflect the dinner addition, acknowledging the expansion while noting that the daytime menu remains unchanged and excellent.
The overall critical consensus: Sqirl After Dark delivers on the impossible expectations that come with a 14-year buildup. The food is genuinely exciting, the team is strong, and the transition from breakfast icon to full-service restaurant feels earned rather than forced.
Comparing Sqirl After Dark to Similar Restaurants
If you love Sqirl After Dark, consider also trying:
Kismet (Los Feliz): Another Eastside favorite that blends California produce with Middle Eastern and North African flavors. Similar price point, similarly creative approach to vegetables and grains.
Horses (closed December 2025): Sqirl After Dark occupies some of the same creative space that Horses left behind. The bistro-forward approach and chef-collaborative model echo what made Horses special. (Several Horses alumni are now running the Bruce pop-up.)
Electric Bleu (Mar Vista): If you want the French bistro side of the spectrum. Craig Hopson's neighborhood spot shares Sqirl After Dark's commitment to ingredient-driven cooking, but with a European rather than Californian accent.
FAQ
How much does dinner at Sqirl cost?
Expect to spend $60-$90 per person including drinks. Starters range from roughly $14-$20, mains from $28-$40. The cocktail program is reasonably priced for the quality.
Do I need a reservation for Sqirl After Dark?
Strongly recommended. Resy reservations for parties up to six are the primary booking method. Bar walk-ins are possible, especially on weeknights, but not guaranteed.
Is the breakfast/lunch menu still available?
Yes. Daytime service runs 8 AM to 4 PM with the full existing menu. Dinner is a separate service starting at 5:30 PM with a completely different menu.
Is Sqirl After Dark good for a date?
Very much so. The intimate setting, creative cocktails, and conversation-friendly noise level make it one of the better date night options on the Eastside.
What should I wear?
Whatever you're comfortable in. Smart casual works, but East Hollywood casual is perfectly fine. This isn't a place that cares about dress codes.
Is there parking?
Street parking in Virgil Village can be challenging, especially on weekends. Ride-share is recommended for evening visits. There's no dedicated lot.
How does Sqirl After Dark compare to the daytime menu?
They're different restaurants sharing the same address. Daytime Sqirl is bright, grain-forward, and California casual. Dinner is richer, more protein-driven, and bistro-influenced. The fermentation DNA connects both, but expect a significantly different experience at night.
